Mount Toubkal (4167m) – The Highest Mountain in North Africa

For 550 Dhs (roughly £40) per person the 2 nights 2 day trek (including breakfast, dinner and guide fees) to summit mount Toubkal sounded too good to be true. Asking around from other agents who could organise the same trek, the lowest quote in the market I found was 800 Dhs per person for a minimum of two ppl. Nevertheless, getting multiple assurance from Ibrahim (agent 1) I felt I had struck the perfect deal. Having booked an excursion to Ozoud waterfalls with him already, on which I was to depart a day before my trek to Mount Toubkal, I felt no reason to suspect him – not realizing that he could be quoting a ridiculously low quote just so that I paid the full price for the ride to the waterfalls. Feeling content with my bargaining skills I left his office to give the good news to three others who were interested to summit the highest mountain in North Africa..

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All packed and ready for the road journey to Imlil from where we were to start our trek the next morning I decided to pay one final visit to Ibrahim (agent1) to confirm the time we should be meeting the guide who was coming over from Imlil to Marrakech to pick us up that night.

On seeing me the agent non challantly remarked that the guide was watching a football match and that we wont be departing tonight!!  For a second I thought he was joking, searching his face carefully for a subtle grin, I saw none. I was furious, two other people who were to join us had moved there bookings around completely on my suggestion so we could all go together and bring the cost of hiring the guide and the trip down. On top of that Ibrahim said we could still go tomorrow, however the price for the trip had gone up as well. Angry, frustrated and feeling swindled by this con artist of an agent I decided not to fall for his nonsense anymore and pay a visit to Abdessamad (agent 2), who had offered us 800 Dhs for the same trip two days earlier. Fortunately he still stuck to his quote and called the guide right away to confirm that we could still depart for Imlil the next morning. Having been conned once by an agent, I made sure he wrote everything down on a paper and signed his name on it and gave us a receipt.

The next morning the guide was there to pick us up; however he took us to the agent 1’s office who had swindled us the night before…

Turns out there were two Canadians who had booked the same trek with agent1 a day after we had confirmed our trip, but had settled on a higher price 1100 Dhs per person (with an additional night stay) instead of 550 Dhs p/p that we had agreed with the same agent! That explained it all. Agent1, thinking that the two Canadians would never pay the same money if they found out that four other ppl going on the same trek through the same agent had paid half the price they were paying, cancelled our trip (coming up with a cock and bull excuse that the guide was busy watching a football game!!!).

Idmansour, the guide, however was working for both agent1 and agent2 and took us to agent 1’s office to collect the two Canadians who were to join us for the trek.

A brief summary of the trek to the summit of Mount Toubkal, which thankfully was uneventful and without any hiccups.

Day 1: Drive from Marrakech to Imlil 1.5 hrs. Trek from Imlil to Toubkal Nature Refuge 5-6 hrs. Ascent 1467m.

Day 2: Early morning start at 6am to summit mount Toubkal. 3 hrs to the summit. 2 hrs to trek down from the summit back to the Toubkal nature refuge. Ascent and Descent 960m. After lunch we set out again to trek back to Imlil (3-4hrs). From Imlil we took a public bus back to Marrakech that took us 2.5 hrs.

Cost: 800 Dhs per person. One night two days trek.  Includes lunch dinner breakfast,  night stay and guide fees. Does not include drinks.

Guide: Muhammad Idmansour. Can be contacted directly to organize the trek. +212 671735905

The Similarity Between An Athlete And A Gnostic

A guy that I work with had a sky diving accident almost 3 years ago. He was hospitalized for over a month ending up with two broken vertebrae, titanium rods in both legs coupled with a few other less brutal injuries.

I met him almost 2 years ago when I started working at my current job, he had only joined a month earlier after recovering from his near fatal fall. I distinctively remember seeing streaks of blood stains occasionally on the back of his shirt, thinking he must have had a back injury..

A few months later he started training for Iron Man Triathlon and successfully completed it in the following Summers. Within a few weeks he competed in Ultra Iron Man Triathlon as if one Iron Man wasn’t enough of an accomplishment (or chastisement for the body  !?). I found it quite remarkable for somebody who had a near fatal experience, his body showing clear marks of what it had been through, to tune it to achieve this athletic fiat! Had he told me that he hoped to participate in the Iron Man at the time he shared the details of his accident with me, I would have wished him luck, empathizing with him at his almost certain failure to complete let alone complete such a physically challenging race.

It made me think that part of the reason why I understand and appreciate his accomplishment is because I have seen him achieve it, thinking it nearly impossible. If rigorous training and self discipline can help a battered body attain such a physical state; why is it so difficult for us to comprehend that people, who dedicate their lives in the attainment of one goal – knowing their Creator, and  continuously strive to cleanse themselves spiritually, can have a stronger connection with God and can achieve certain spiritual graces by conditioning their soul through devotional practices and spiritual exercises ?

Why are we so determined to see proofs of spiritual significance in the physical/material realm when the demonstration of a spiritual gift runs counter to the essence of spirituality? Why do we have to see to believe ? Is it because our scientifically conditioned mental arrogance leads us to think that that the modern man of our age has achieved the height of intelligence and nothing is beyond the grasp of our minds!? Just because something has not happened in our times or in front of our eyes does not make it an impossibility !?

Professional sports men to me are very similar to gnostics, one tries to acheive a physical state through exercises, self discipline and commitment to excel at a particular sport and the other exerts his energies at purifying and conditioning his soul to develop a stronger connection with God..

A Gentleman’s Agreement – How I got my ‘Sabbatical’

When I finally realized that I had to go travelling I started thinking about ways to make it possible. The simplest option available was to quit my job and hit the road. However I faced a conundrum – having worked for the past 8 years in a few different organizations in London, I felt that this place was one, where even though I had spent a year and a half working, I liked the people I worked with, the role and there was still a lot to learn and experience..

I didn’t want to come back from travelling to start looking for a new role with risk that it may not be as satisfying as the job I currently have. I wanted the best of both the worlds – to go travelling and to have a job, that I liked, to come back to.

So, I searched my company’s Employee Handbook to see if there was anything related to sabbaticals. Generally, big organizations have written down policies about sabbaticals which have some pros and cons. One of the cons being that, one has to have worked a set number of years to be able to apply for a sabbatical. Almost always the number of months of the sabbatical is correlated with the number of years worked. I didn’t stand a chance based on such a criteria as most places require the employees to have worked at least 2-3 years before applying for sabbaticals.

Thankfully my employer (a hedge fund) did not have a written down policy which meant that if they liked me enough things could go in my favor. I started working a little harder than usual to ensure that my employers recognized and valued my contribution and would be keen to retain me.

Fast forward six months, with the stars all perfectly aligned (read personal circumstances suddenly becoming conducive to travel) , I decided that I was ready to go even if it meant that I had to quit my job and look for a new one upon my return. Fortunately my manager was happy with my work. They offered me a 3 months sabbatical (instead of the 6 months I had asked for). A fair compromise I thought (especially since the other option was to quit my job without any guarantees), besides if I really wanted to go for longer I still had the option to quit! So I accepted the offer. A few weeks later I learnt that that a certain department was not in favor of granting sabbaticals (and there was no policy as such for a reason). Perhaps to deter any wayward souls who might have similar ideas ?!

My boss, true to his word, proposed a Gentleman’s Agreement. The gist of it was – I would have to resign, and if I were to come back within 3 months I could have my job back. After a final round of negotiations we agreed on a 4 month period of absence with me confirming to them within one month after starting my journey, if I would be coming back at all or not. I thought that worked out better for me than a plain old 3 month sabbatical! A pertinent analogy for those obsessed with Options in finance would be to look at the gentleman’s agreement as an American Call Option on an ’employment contract’ with one month expiry. From an option holders perspective, it was Deep In The Money so I took it.

For those looking for some inspiration to hit the road, here is a piece of advice from Edward Abbey:

One final paragraph of advice: do not burn yourselves out. Be as I am – a reluctant enthusiast….a part-time crusader, a half-hearted fanatic. Save the other half of yourselves and your lives for pleasure and adventure. It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it’s still here. So get out there and hunt and fish and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, climb the mountains, bag the peaks, run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, the lovely, mysterious, and awesome space. Enjoy yourselves, keep your brain in your head and your head firmly attached to the body, the body active and alive, and I promise you this much; I promise you this one sweet victory over our enemies, over those desk-bound men and women with their hearts in a safe deposit box, and their eyes hypnotized by desk calculators. I promise you this; You will outlive the bastards.

Uzbekistan Visa And My Stock Picking Strategy

In stark contrast to the smooth and pleasant experience of applying for Tajikistan Visa, my visit to the Uzbekistan Consular office in London was extremely distasteful and unpleasant. The woman at the visa window was exceptionally rude. Having put up with her demeaning attitude for 45 mins I decided to leave without submitting my application with the intent of writing to the Uzbekistan Ambassador to UK about my ordeal in the hope that it will redress the obnoxious and disparaging attitude of the staff.

So as soon as I got back from the embassy, I Googled the name of the ambassador. And surely he came up on LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter. So I wrote to him on all three forums. And Yes, I activated my Twitter account for the sole purpose of getting in touch with the Uzbekistan Ambassador. Let’s see if I ever get a response back (!?) I have been thinking of “investing” (sounds grand but it really is just putting a few hard earned pound sterlings into a worth while Tech stock for rainy days) in LinkedIn, Facebook or Twitter for sometime but was never really convinced they offered good long term prospects. Whichever forum if any (and ever!) I get the response to my message/email/tweet from the ambassador would be the stock i’ll go long on..savvy stock picking strategy eh !?

However I’m determined not to let this experience ruin my plan for visiting Uzbekistan. One of the places I noted down while reading The Travels of Ibn Battutah was Uzbekistan and I had put the following excerpt next to my notes entry

‘The melons of Khawarizm have no equal in any country of the world, East or West, except it may be the melons of Bukhara, and next to that the melons of Isfahan. Their rind is green, and the flesh is red, of extreme sweetness and firm texture..’

Would hate to miss out on these delicious melons, so the alternative plan is to apply for Uzbek visa at one of their consulates along the way insha’Allah..

Tajikistan Visa and GBAO Permit

If you hold a British Passport you need to apply for a visa before travelling to Tajikistan. You can check the entry requirements and any other relevant information on the FCO website. If you are planning to visit Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region you will also need to apply for the GBAO permit. This can be done by stating that you need GBAO permit on your visa application; No separate application needed for GBAO permit.

My experience of applying for the Tajikistan visa at their London consulate was a very straight forward and painless process. To download the visa application form and review the requirements for the visa application you can visit the Visa Inquiries page of the embassy website.

Tajikistan Visa cost: £20

GBAO Permit cost: £50

Processing Time: 1 week

The Map of My Proposed Journey

I plan to hit the road on 01 May 2015, starting from Tangier in the footsteps of one the greatest travelers of all time Abū ʿAbd al-Lāh Muḥammad ibn ʿAbd al-Lāh l-Lawātī ṭ-Ṭanǧī ibn Baṭūṭah. Ibn Baṭūṭah set out from Tangier in 1325 for Makkah to perform Hajj and continued to travel for almost 30 years before returning to Morocco.

Due to time limitation, visa restrictions and countries which are inaccessible due to conflict I wont be able to travel as much as I would have desired and would only be able to visit a tiny fraction of all the amazing places Ibn Baṭūṭah saw.

I don’t have a strict itinerary either only a few hard deadlines to get to certain places by certain dates; I intend to improvise and adapt as I go along. Below is a very rough sketch of my itinerary.

First Leg (01 May to 19 June)

Tangier -> Marrakesh -> Sijilmassa -> Fes -> Tlemcen -> Algiers -> Tunis -> Alexandria -> Cairo -> Luxor -> Aydhab -> Jeddah

Second Leg (20 June to 19 July)

Jeddah -> Makkah -> Medina -> Petra -> Wadi Rum -> Amman -> Jerusalem -> via Jordan ->  Lahore

Third Leg (20 July to 05 Aug)

Lahore -> Tabriz -> Shooshtar -> Esfahan  -> Shiraz -> Bukahara -> Samarkand -> Termez -> Mazar i Sharif -> Dushanbe -> Murghab -> Khorog -> Ishkashem

Fourth Leg (06 Aug to 25 Aug)

Ibn Battutah travelled from Termez to Mazar-i-Sharif and via Kabul to Multan. For various reasons and the fact that I had wanted to see the Wakhan Corridor and the Northern parts of Pakistan I intend to take a different route into Pakistan:

Ishkashem -> Sarhad Boroghil (Wakhan) -> Wakhan Corridor -> Irshad Uween Pass (4979m)  -> Baba Ghundi -> Misgar -> Sost -> Gilgit -> Skardu

Trek Across The Wakhan Corridor Into Pakistan

On the last leg of my journey I plan to travel from Tajikistan to Pakistan by land through the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. It will probably be the most challenging leg of my trip in terms of logistics, planning and physical demands.

So far discussing this route with friends, family and colleagues has drawn a lot of concern primarily for safety and security reasons; Alot of that seems to be based on the general perception of Afghanistan as a dangerous country, stemming from the popular Western media narrative as opposed to any sound evidence of security related incidents in the Wakhan.

The last published account of someone crossing from Afghanistan into Pakistan via Wakhan Corridor (that I have been able to find) was in 2004 by an American couple Mock and O’Neil. Even though it was more than ten years ago, their report has been a very useful resource to aid me in my planning. Fortunately, I have been able to locate the Pakistani guide who accompanied them on their expedition. He has been forthcoming with useful suggestions and recommendations.

In terms of online resources, there is not a lot out there on Wakhan, and certainly nothing beyond one expedition report on trekking across from Wakhan into Pakistan, but there is enough information to be able to plan a trip. Following are the top three useful online resources that I found particularly helpful in planning my trip; if anyone comes across any other useful resource, please do share.
1) Mock and O’Neil

2) Juldu

3) OffTheUnbeatenTrack

For those with deep pockets looking to avoid the hassle of planning a bespoke trip to the Wakhan and happy to join a small group rather than going solo – check out Secret Compass . They organize an expedition to Wakhan every year, which looks pretty interesting, but they don’t venture anywhere close to the mountain passes between Pakistan and Afghanistan.

A Rough Sketch of The Route I intend to Take
Ishkashem -> Sarhad Boroghil (Wakhan) -> Wakhan Corridor -> Irshad Uween Pass (4979m)  -> Baba Ghundi -> Misgar -> Sost -> Gilgit -> Skardu

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